Maplewood's aging decks and fences: what to check before you replace
By Jeff Rabkin, JustFix Wood · Published September 28, 2026
Maplewood grew quickly as farms gave way to neighborhoods in the decades after World War II. That means plenty of homes around town have decks and fences that have already been repaired, rebuilt, or added long after the house went up.
Age alone doesn't tell me whether exterior wood needs to be replaced. I look at where water sits, how the structure moves, and whether the connections are still sound. A few bad boards or posts can make the whole thing look worse than it is.
Sources: City of Maplewood history
Where Maplewood decks usually show trouble
Minnesota's wet springs, humid summers, and repeated freeze-thaw cycles are hard on exterior wood. The exposed surface gets the attention, but I start with the parts that carry the load and the places that stay wet.
- The ledger where the deck attaches to the house, especially if flashing is missing or damaged.
- Board ends and joints that hold water longer than the middle of a board.
- Stair treads, stringer bottoms, and posts close to the ground.
- Joist tops under the gaps between deck boards.
- Hangers, bolts, screws, and nails with rust, staining, or movement around them.
- Corners that feel springy or rail posts that move when pushed.
Older treated lumber and the hardware around it
A deck built before 2004 may contain chromated copper arsenate, or CCA-treated, lumber. The EPA does not require homeowners to remove existing CCA wood, but it should never be burned. If old boards come out during a repair, they need to be handled and disposed of properly.
Newer treated lumber also matters because its copper-based preservatives can corrode ordinary steel. A sound board held by the wrong screw can loosen long before the wood fails. Repairs need fasteners and connectors rated for the lumber and the job they're doing.
Sources: EPA overview of wood preservatives · EPA guidance on CCA-treated wood
Fence problems usually start with a post
A leaning fence often has one or two failed posts while most of the rails and pickets are still usable. The critical spot is right at the soil line, where the wood stays damp and has enough air for rot to take hold.
Frost can move a post, too. Once one post lifts or leans, the connected panels pull on the next ones. Catch it early and the repair may be limited to resetting or replacing the failed posts and reattaching the existing sections.
- Push each post and watch whether movement starts at the base.
- Check for soft, dark, or crumbling wood at the soil line.
- Look along the top of the fence for one section that has dropped or twisted.
- Check gates for dragging, loose hinges, and posts pulled out of plumb.
Repair, permit, or replace?
Replacing a few boards, tightening a rail, or resetting a fence post is different from building a new structure. Maplewood says a deck permit is required when a deck is attached to a building or more than 30 inches above grade. Minnesota also has specific requirements for deck lumber, ledgers, fasteners, guards, and footings.
For fences, Maplewood publishes separate placement and height guidance. If a repair changes the size, height, attachment, or structural layout, check with the city before work starts. Local requirements can change, and the city is the right place to settle a close call.
Sources: City of Maplewood deck requirements · Minnesota DLI residential deck guide · City of Maplewood fence guidance
A ten-minute spring check
After the frost is out, walk the deck and fence with a screwdriver. Push gently into suspicious wood. Sound wood resists; rot feels soft and breaks into short, crumbly pieces. Then push on the railings and fence posts and look underneath the deck if you can do it safely.
If the damage is limited, repair it before water and movement spread the problem. Send me a close photo, a wider photo, and one from underneath or at the base. I'll tell you whether it looks like a small repair or whether it needs a closer inspection.
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